In 2005, a well-respected local archaeologist, Sergio Rapu, carried out a number of experiments that he believed supported the moving of the upright figures but the full development of this theory is awaiting developments.
Why were they toppled?
From the observations of the seafarers and the notes from the early missionaries, it is clear that many were toppled during the clan wars that broke out as the population reached it’s peak. Captain Cook reported that some were toppled in 1774. Later reports, suggested that only a small number were left standing in 1838. It seems that part of defeating your enemy was destroying his manu. This is believed to be the most important reason why the statues were toppled.
The Birdman Cult
The Birdman cult is believed to have started about 1760, after the arrival of the first Europeans. Each clan would choose a representative to participate in this competition. In early September, when the Sooty Tern, a migratory sea bird that nested in the tiny islands, a mile off the coast opposite Orongo, the competition was prepared. The representative would each appoint a Hopu, who would swim to the furthest island of Motu Nui and here collect the first laid egg. The Hopu would first descend the thousand foot (30 meters) steep slope to the water and swim out to the island. Some accounts say that they used a reed raft. They were then faced a scramble up the side of the slippery rocks to retrieve a Sooty Tern egg and return with it to the ceremonial village of Orongo. Sometimes they had to huddle in caves to await the first laid eggs.
The return journey was through shark infested waters that were swept with fierce currents. Many of the Hopus didn’t make it back to the shore. The successful Hopu would hand the egg over to his sponsor who by now had shaved his head and painted it either red or white. The successful man was declared Tangata-Manu. According to legends, he was the one chosen by Meke Meke, their spiritual God. He would lead a possession back to either Anakena if he was from the western clan or Rano Raraku if he was from the eastern clan. He was declared tapu (taboo) and for the next five months lived in seclusion. He was given a new name, gifts, food and other tributes. His clan had the rights to collect wild birds eggs from Motu Nui for the next 12 months. He himself lived in seclusion in a special ceremonial house served only by his Hopu.
Showing posts with label Mysteries of Easter Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mysteries of Easter Island. Show all posts
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 15
Another fascinating aspect of the statues is the ears. There are short eared and long eared statues. Some of the long eared ones may have, at one time, had coral or bone attachments in their ear lobes.
So just how many Moai are their on Rapa Nui?
According to a study by Jo Ann Van Tilburg, there are 887 including 288 erected or toppled from various platforms or ahus and 397 remaining in the quarry of Rana Raraku. This information creates one of the still unsolved mysteries of Rapa Nui: why were there so many figures unfinished, part finished or still left attached to the rock in Rana Raraku? The evidence seems to suggest a more sudden end to this activity rather than it’s gradual decline.
There is also some evidence to suggest that some of the moai that lie toppled along the “roads” that were used to transport the statues, may have been some form of boundary markers.
How were the Moai’s transported to their sites?
This has long been one of the most difficult questions. Firstly, we need to understand that the society that created the statues did so without the benefit of steel tools or the wheel. This was a primitive but obviously innovative society.
When researchers first looked at the challenges of transporting a statute that weighs 10-20 tons, over a distance of some 20 or more kilometres, the task seems immense. The most common form of moving large objects in classical Greece, Egypt or the Middle East was using round timber logs as rollers. However there is some doubt that the type of timber required existed on the island. The most common type of tree was the palm tree and although there are small areas of timbered forests on Rapa Nui today, it is doubtful that they existed in 1100-1700. For rollers, a quantity of tall trees with hardwood round trunks, would have been required.
Now, add to this the legend that the statues “walked” to their ahu sites, and the mystery becomes even greater. Various methods have been tried but there is only one that might satisfy all of these complexities. This is that the statues were fitted with giant wooden “boots”. When the statues where hauled upright onto their “feet”, they were rocked from side to side, pivoted on one foot, rocked back to the other side, pivoted again and the process repeated time after time until they reached that destination. Obviously roads would have needed to have been prepared and some form of ropes used but given a team of 90 men, it might be feasible. Thor Heyerdahl carried out trials to try to prove this theory. The assembled team did manage to move an upright statue a number of feet but the experiment was determined to be inconclusive.
So just how many Moai are their on Rapa Nui?
According to a study by Jo Ann Van Tilburg, there are 887 including 288 erected or toppled from various platforms or ahus and 397 remaining in the quarry of Rana Raraku. This information creates one of the still unsolved mysteries of Rapa Nui: why were there so many figures unfinished, part finished or still left attached to the rock in Rana Raraku? The evidence seems to suggest a more sudden end to this activity rather than it’s gradual decline.
There is also some evidence to suggest that some of the moai that lie toppled along the “roads” that were used to transport the statues, may have been some form of boundary markers.
How were the Moai’s transported to their sites?
This has long been one of the most difficult questions. Firstly, we need to understand that the society that created the statues did so without the benefit of steel tools or the wheel. This was a primitive but obviously innovative society.
When researchers first looked at the challenges of transporting a statute that weighs 10-20 tons, over a distance of some 20 or more kilometres, the task seems immense. The most common form of moving large objects in classical Greece, Egypt or the Middle East was using round timber logs as rollers. However there is some doubt that the type of timber required existed on the island. The most common type of tree was the palm tree and although there are small areas of timbered forests on Rapa Nui today, it is doubtful that they existed in 1100-1700. For rollers, a quantity of tall trees with hardwood round trunks, would have been required.
Now, add to this the legend that the statues “walked” to their ahu sites, and the mystery becomes even greater. Various methods have been tried but there is only one that might satisfy all of these complexities. This is that the statues were fitted with giant wooden “boots”. When the statues where hauled upright onto their “feet”, they were rocked from side to side, pivoted on one foot, rocked back to the other side, pivoted again and the process repeated time after time until they reached that destination. Obviously roads would have needed to have been prepared and some form of ropes used but given a team of 90 men, it might be feasible. Thor Heyerdahl carried out trials to try to prove this theory. The assembled team did manage to move an upright statue a number of feet but the experiment was determined to be inconclusive.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 14
Although the moai look very similar, few are identical. The moai were carved out of basalt. Each had a number of common features: a long and snubbed nose, prominent cheekbones, fine and joined lips, a prominent and pointed chin and in most cases large ears. Over the years the form and styles of the statues have changed.
The tools used for carving were also basalt but of a harder material. Various estimates have been made as to the amount of manpower required to carve out each statue. One of the estimates, was that it took some 30 men working 8 hours a day for a year to carve the moai and topknot. Other estimates suggest that it might take more than 90 men to prepare a road and transport the moai to its site in about three months. The conclusion therefore is that this process was hugely labour intensive.
The round donut-looking topknot are carved elsewhere. This is done near the quarry at Puna Pau where the black basalt is replaced with a porous red volcanic rock. These topknots, the larger ones weighing up to two tons were lifted onto the moai once they were in place. As there are considerably less topknots than bodies, it seems possible that these may have been a later development of their culture. There are still about 25 topknots located near the Puna Pau quarry.
Most a of the figures are men but female forms have been found.
The sizes of the moai vary considerably. The smallest found erected is only 1.13 meters and the largest erected is 9.94 meters high. The largest figure is a 21.60 meters prone figure that still remains in the quarry. It has been estimated to weigh more than 180 metric tons.
The white part of the eye of the statutes is made from white coral and in those that had them the iris was carved from red scoria. The eyes were only added to the statues after they had been erected in place on the ahu.
The tools used for carving were also basalt but of a harder material. Various estimates have been made as to the amount of manpower required to carve out each statue. One of the estimates, was that it took some 30 men working 8 hours a day for a year to carve the moai and topknot. Other estimates suggest that it might take more than 90 men to prepare a road and transport the moai to its site in about three months. The conclusion therefore is that this process was hugely labour intensive.
The round donut-looking topknot are carved elsewhere. This is done near the quarry at Puna Pau where the black basalt is replaced with a porous red volcanic rock. These topknots, the larger ones weighing up to two tons were lifted onto the moai once they were in place. As there are considerably less topknots than bodies, it seems possible that these may have been a later development of their culture. There are still about 25 topknots located near the Puna Pau quarry.
Most a of the figures are men but female forms have been found.
The sizes of the moai vary considerably. The smallest found erected is only 1.13 meters and the largest erected is 9.94 meters high. The largest figure is a 21.60 meters prone figure that still remains in the quarry. It has been estimated to weigh more than 180 metric tons.
The white part of the eye of the statutes is made from white coral and in those that had them the iris was carved from red scoria. The eyes were only added to the statues after they had been erected in place on the ahu.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 13
And so ended our most enthralling three days on Easter Island. We’d read a lot before we’d arrived but we’d understood a lot more after our visit. We left with some answers to our questions but even more importantly a longer list of questions. We had enjoyed our very brief stay on Easter Island. It is remote, it is the home of friendly hospitable people and it is definitely worth the visit.
Notes from my research and the writings of others
Rapa Nui culture is complex and there are many gaps in our knowledge. But assembling together the facts that researchers have determined, together with reading such books as Katherine Routledge’s The Mystery of Easter Island published in 1919, has helped us broaden our understanding. Although dated, this book provides many insights into the history and the culture of the Rapa Nui.
The Moai
The carved statue of this particular style is not only found in Rapa Nui but it has been found in Hawaii, New Zealand and a couple of lesser Pacific islands. However, none of these are anything like the size or numbers that are found in Rapa Nui.
So what is the purpose of the moai?
To understand this we must first understand the Polynesian concept of mana. Mana is a form of wellbeing, presence, power, prestige and worldliness. The statues delivered this mana to the clan or sub-clan (community). However, they were not gods or idols nor were they statues of ancestors but they did represent ancestry in the form of power from the past.
Originally it is believed that all of the moai were erected on platforms called ahu. These platforms were built to a traditional specification that provided space for the storage of the bones of their ancestors as well as providing a platform for the display of the dead. The dead were wrapped in tapa flax cloth and placed on “racks” on the platforms. Villagers maintained vigil over these bodies for periods varying from one to three years. After the period of mourning, celebrations were held and the remains were relocated to vaults under the forecourt of the platforms. These are sacred sites and both visitors and locals need to understand that stepping on them is tabu.
Notes from my research and the writings of others
Rapa Nui culture is complex and there are many gaps in our knowledge. But assembling together the facts that researchers have determined, together with reading such books as Katherine Routledge’s The Mystery of Easter Island published in 1919, has helped us broaden our understanding. Although dated, this book provides many insights into the history and the culture of the Rapa Nui.
The Moai
The carved statue of this particular style is not only found in Rapa Nui but it has been found in Hawaii, New Zealand and a couple of lesser Pacific islands. However, none of these are anything like the size or numbers that are found in Rapa Nui.
So what is the purpose of the moai?
To understand this we must first understand the Polynesian concept of mana. Mana is a form of wellbeing, presence, power, prestige and worldliness. The statues delivered this mana to the clan or sub-clan (community). However, they were not gods or idols nor were they statues of ancestors but they did represent ancestry in the form of power from the past.
Originally it is believed that all of the moai were erected on platforms called ahu. These platforms were built to a traditional specification that provided space for the storage of the bones of their ancestors as well as providing a platform for the display of the dead. The dead were wrapped in tapa flax cloth and placed on “racks” on the platforms. Villagers maintained vigil over these bodies for periods varying from one to three years. After the period of mourning, celebrations were held and the remains were relocated to vaults under the forecourt of the platforms. These are sacred sites and both visitors and locals need to understand that stepping on them is tabu.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 12
Near the top, we parked in the allocated area and wandered over to purchase our tickets to enter this archaeological site. It was 5000 pesos each. From here we followed a trail that took us to the ancient village of Orongo. Here there was significant restored stone remains of this ancient citadel. We wandered around reading the guidebook and various inscriptions.
In a gathering rain squall, we made our way to the lookout over the Islet of Motu Nui which was the site of the Birdman competition. It was here the contestants scaled down the steep cliffs prior to their swim to the furthest of the three islands. The closest island is a pinnacle that rises almost vertically out of the sea. We could see the swirling currents and waves dashing upon its rocks. Could anyone survive a swim in such turbulent waters, we wondered. The furthest island, some one mile or so from the shore, was flatter. This was where the Sooty Tern, migrant birds, made their nests. But with the seas crashing into it, it still looked a formidable place with only a few places that appeared to have possible access from the water. It was here that the contestants would climb up to the nests and collecting an egg, make their way back to the shore from for the swim back to the slopes of Rano Kau. If they weren’t already exhausted from the swim they had a steep steep climb carrying the egg to the assembled crowd at the ceremonial place in the village of Orongo. The first of the contestants to hand over an intact egg to their sponsors was declared the winner. It must have been a herculean task, perhaps the equivalent to having run a triathlon, but the glory that it brought to the winner was immense. The sponsor was crowned the Tangata-Manu - the Birdman of the Island for a year. The Birdman mythically is half bird, half man. We just stood there, staring out to sea at the ragged rocks and the sleep slope below, wondering with admiration, just why all this had occurred.
The clouds were by now gathering and I wanted to take some photographs of the carvings or petro glyphs on the rocks near the Orongo village. These depict scenes of the contestants thanking Meke Meke for his spiritual support for their quest. Just when I’d taken my first photograph, it was almost as though that the Gods above has disapproved, and we were suddenly hit by a mini-cyclone of howling wind and rain. There was nowhere to shelter and the now driving rain beat us back along the path to seek the shelter of our car. Here we tried to dry out, while waiting for the rain to end. This was the time that I tried to start the car and again the Gods seem to intercede. So we sat in the car for half an hour and waited for the storm to blow itself over. It left as suddenly as it had come. With one last effort, the engine started and we were able to wind our way back to town following the winding road with gutters overflowing with rainwater.
In a gathering rain squall, we made our way to the lookout over the Islet of Motu Nui which was the site of the Birdman competition. It was here the contestants scaled down the steep cliffs prior to their swim to the furthest of the three islands. The closest island is a pinnacle that rises almost vertically out of the sea. We could see the swirling currents and waves dashing upon its rocks. Could anyone survive a swim in such turbulent waters, we wondered. The furthest island, some one mile or so from the shore, was flatter. This was where the Sooty Tern, migrant birds, made their nests. But with the seas crashing into it, it still looked a formidable place with only a few places that appeared to have possible access from the water. It was here that the contestants would climb up to the nests and collecting an egg, make their way back to the shore from for the swim back to the slopes of Rano Kau. If they weren’t already exhausted from the swim they had a steep steep climb carrying the egg to the assembled crowd at the ceremonial place in the village of Orongo. The first of the contestants to hand over an intact egg to their sponsors was declared the winner. It must have been a herculean task, perhaps the equivalent to having run a triathlon, but the glory that it brought to the winner was immense. The sponsor was crowned the Tangata-Manu - the Birdman of the Island for a year. The Birdman mythically is half bird, half man. We just stood there, staring out to sea at the ragged rocks and the sleep slope below, wondering with admiration, just why all this had occurred.
The clouds were by now gathering and I wanted to take some photographs of the carvings or petro glyphs on the rocks near the Orongo village. These depict scenes of the contestants thanking Meke Meke for his spiritual support for their quest. Just when I’d taken my first photograph, it was almost as though that the Gods above has disapproved, and we were suddenly hit by a mini-cyclone of howling wind and rain. There was nowhere to shelter and the now driving rain beat us back along the path to seek the shelter of our car. Here we tried to dry out, while waiting for the rain to end. This was the time that I tried to start the car and again the Gods seem to intercede. So we sat in the car for half an hour and waited for the storm to blow itself over. It left as suddenly as it had come. With one last effort, the engine started and we were able to wind our way back to town following the winding road with gutters overflowing with rainwater.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 10
A unique discovery at Rano Raraku is the kneeling figure called Tukuturi. We found it difficult to find and we had to ask a couple of times. Eventually we came across this 4 meter high figure kneeling figure with its hands on its thighs. Once again it presented one of those mysteries that have yet to be solved. Why was it here and why was it different to all the other statues? As we walked along the path to the rim of the crater, where we could see other moai still upright, we had a decision to make. It was after four o’clock and we wanted to make two more stops before we navigated the difficult northern road back to town. We decided to turn back.
Nearby was the largest ahu on the island, Tongariki. Here 15 moai have been restored on the new platform. This was done by a Chilean archaeologist supported by a Japanese company between 1992 and 1995. These figures had been brought down by the tsunami that had struck the coast in 1960 doing significant damage along the coastline. Only one of the figures had the topknot restored. Later we learned that the earlier forms of moai did not have topknots. As we stood there taking in the figures, we could see the different shapes, heights and styles which showed how these moai were probably all from different time periods, perhaps hundreds of years.
We had time for a short stop at Anakena, which has Rapa Nui’s only real beach. It is an idyllic spot with a cream-yellow sandy beach fringed with perhaps a hundred tall palm trees. Shortly back from the beach and at an angle to the beach, there is a ahu here with seven moai, four with topknots. This is an important site in Rapa Nui history as it is also the burial site of Hotu Matua.
On a hill on the western flank of the beach there is a solitary moai. This was the first to be raised back into place by the islanders using traditional methods. This was in 1955.
Nearby was the largest ahu on the island, Tongariki. Here 15 moai have been restored on the new platform. This was done by a Chilean archaeologist supported by a Japanese company between 1992 and 1995. These figures had been brought down by the tsunami that had struck the coast in 1960 doing significant damage along the coastline. Only one of the figures had the topknot restored. Later we learned that the earlier forms of moai did not have topknots. As we stood there taking in the figures, we could see the different shapes, heights and styles which showed how these moai were probably all from different time periods, perhaps hundreds of years.
We had time for a short stop at Anakena, which has Rapa Nui’s only real beach. It is an idyllic spot with a cream-yellow sandy beach fringed with perhaps a hundred tall palm trees. Shortly back from the beach and at an angle to the beach, there is a ahu here with seven moai, four with topknots. This is an important site in Rapa Nui history as it is also the burial site of Hotu Matua.
On a hill on the western flank of the beach there is a solitary moai. This was the first to be raised back into place by the islanders using traditional methods. This was in 1955.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 11
The area to the northeast was particularly barren and windswept. The road was rough and at times, potholed. The sun was setting and it look all our concentration to keep the car out of the potholes which could have easily blown a tyre or worse. There were few cars on the road that late in the day and the only living things that we saw were herds of wild horses. These apparently have grown and thrived in the area.
As it was going dark, we were on a single road so we couldn’t really get lost, or could we?
We did get back to town and elected to go for dinner at Hakanonu’s, a great little place with views over Pea Bay. The restaurant has an expansive seafood selection. The sun was setting behind the clouds leaving us with a golden sunset, as we downed a beer to celebrate our island circuit. We found the meals and drinks here quite expensive as almost everything has to be flown in. One of the tips that we were given was to bring your own liquor with you if you plan to stay for more than a couple of days.
The next morning we were again greeted with heavy cloud over the west of the island. We discussed our options with Edith and her sister. I noticed a photograph on the wall of the dining area and asked her about the person in the photo: “Who is this?” She replied, “That’s my mother”. As we chatted I was surprised to learn that she had twenty brothers and sisters, all by the mother in the photograph. “Oh,” she said “That doesn’t count the six children that died in childbirth”. Her mothers name was Tomisa Araki and her father Esteban Pakarati. I was so taken back by this information that if forgot to ask if her mother was a descendant of the Royal Family of Rapa Nui with a family name Ariki. Wow, what a family.
We packed our rain jackets and headed off towards the airport road. Turning onto a signposted side road we followed a narrow and twisty road along the side of the dormant volcano, Rano Kau. The road was criss-crossed a number of times by a trail that led to the top of the crater rim. It was quite a climb. Near the top we stopped to look over the crater of Rano Kau. Far below us was a sunken lake which had beds of what looked like various forms of flowers floating on the surface. The mists swirled in over the broken western rim, giving the scene a totally eerie effect.
As it was going dark, we were on a single road so we couldn’t really get lost, or could we?
We did get back to town and elected to go for dinner at Hakanonu’s, a great little place with views over Pea Bay. The restaurant has an expansive seafood selection. The sun was setting behind the clouds leaving us with a golden sunset, as we downed a beer to celebrate our island circuit. We found the meals and drinks here quite expensive as almost everything has to be flown in. One of the tips that we were given was to bring your own liquor with you if you plan to stay for more than a couple of days.
The next morning we were again greeted with heavy cloud over the west of the island. We discussed our options with Edith and her sister. I noticed a photograph on the wall of the dining area and asked her about the person in the photo: “Who is this?” She replied, “That’s my mother”. As we chatted I was surprised to learn that she had twenty brothers and sisters, all by the mother in the photograph. “Oh,” she said “That doesn’t count the six children that died in childbirth”. Her mothers name was Tomisa Araki and her father Esteban Pakarati. I was so taken back by this information that if forgot to ask if her mother was a descendant of the Royal Family of Rapa Nui with a family name Ariki. Wow, what a family.
We packed our rain jackets and headed off towards the airport road. Turning onto a signposted side road we followed a narrow and twisty road along the side of the dormant volcano, Rano Kau. The road was criss-crossed a number of times by a trail that led to the top of the crater rim. It was quite a climb. Near the top we stopped to look over the crater of Rano Kau. Far below us was a sunken lake which had beds of what looked like various forms of flowers floating on the surface. The mists swirled in over the broken western rim, giving the scene a totally eerie effect.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 9
Between showers, we visited the ahu sites of Ahu Vaihu with its eight large moai all lying facedown, their topknots scattered nearby. Close by were the remains of a number of village huts and community facilities. These reminded me of a number of Viking village remains that we’d visited in Ireland.
Fortunately, we’d brought a simple packed lunch because there were no facilities once we had left the town of Hanga Roa. It did seem rather strange sitting in the car watching the rain showers one minute, then a few minutes later, it had cleared showing us the now rain soaked remains of the moai.
By the time that we’d arrived at the Nursery, Rano Raraku, the clouds were breaking up and patches of sunshine showed through the clouds. We parked our car, and guidebook and umbrella in hand, we walked up to the entrance checkpoint. We were pleased to see that the site was policed as we had been told that vandalism and souvenir hunting had become big business on the island.
The outer grass covered slopes of the dormant volcano, the clearing sky and the longer shadows cast by the mid-afternoon sun, provided a picture-perfect setting for the first moai that we came across on the lower slopes. These were dug into the ground with their heads and torsos sticking up. A closer look revealed that considerable degradation that had occurred over the centuries from wind, sun and rain.
Further up the slope we came to area where still partly hewn moai were attached to the rock base. This illustrated how the carving process had been done. Two parallel channels had been cut from the rock and starting from the head, the stone masons had shaped the body of the statue. Later, the “keel” as it is called, was cut through to release the figure from the rock. It was then slid down the slope to be dropped into a prepared pit so that the detailed work on the head, back and shoulders of the statues could be finished off. A number of the moai shown quite elaborate carvings on their back.
Fortunately, we’d brought a simple packed lunch because there were no facilities once we had left the town of Hanga Roa. It did seem rather strange sitting in the car watching the rain showers one minute, then a few minutes later, it had cleared showing us the now rain soaked remains of the moai.
By the time that we’d arrived at the Nursery, Rano Raraku, the clouds were breaking up and patches of sunshine showed through the clouds. We parked our car, and guidebook and umbrella in hand, we walked up to the entrance checkpoint. We were pleased to see that the site was policed as we had been told that vandalism and souvenir hunting had become big business on the island.
The outer grass covered slopes of the dormant volcano, the clearing sky and the longer shadows cast by the mid-afternoon sun, provided a picture-perfect setting for the first moai that we came across on the lower slopes. These were dug into the ground with their heads and torsos sticking up. A closer look revealed that considerable degradation that had occurred over the centuries from wind, sun and rain.
Further up the slope we came to area where still partly hewn moai were attached to the rock base. This illustrated how the carving process had been done. Two parallel channels had been cut from the rock and starting from the head, the stone masons had shaped the body of the statue. Later, the “keel” as it is called, was cut through to release the figure from the rock. It was then slid down the slope to be dropped into a prepared pit so that the detailed work on the head, back and shoulders of the statues could be finished off. A number of the moai shown quite elaborate carvings on their back.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 8
After dinner at an in town restaurant, that was pretty basic, we walked down the road to the nightly performance of culture and dance at the Kari Kari Cultural Centre. Here we watched a young, enthusiastic and talented dance group doing their performance. The dance looked to us very similar to the ones that we’d seen in Tahiti and Hawaii. The dress was similar too. The girls with headdresses made from palm leaves, tops and short frilly skirts. They let their hips do the dancing. The technique of gyrating at the hips while the upper body remains stationery is fascinating to watch especially as the movement increased with the tempo of the drums.
Later dressed in a more “ceremonial” attire that we associated with Tahitian culture, with tall headdresses and longer skirts, they presented a more mythical tale set to music. The boys, young, bare-chested and fit-looking competed on equal terms with the girls. The show was packed with wild drumming, gyrating dancers, colourful costumes, energy and enjoyment by both the performers and spectators alike. At the end, the audience were invited to join the dancers on the stage.
The next day, after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast and fruit on the attractive terrace overlooking the tropical gardens, we headed off early to circle the island counter clockwise, mainly because many of the tours did the circle clockwise and we wanted to catch the late afternoon sunset behind Rano Raraku - the Nursery. On the South coast, it was overcast and at a number of times during the day, we experienced rain showers. Our first area of exploration were a number of sites with remains of buildings and classical stonework. At Ahu Vinapu there is an impressive ahu site with a wall of mortar-less blocks that very much reminded us of the Inca walls that we’d visited in Ollantaytambo, near Cusco in Peru. The moai lay broken and facedown. Our guidebook told us that other smaller statues were present in this area. It was a moai with short legs. This resembled a number of figures that has been unearthed at a number of Inca sites in the Andes. A shower blew in, ending a more detailed investigation.
Later dressed in a more “ceremonial” attire that we associated with Tahitian culture, with tall headdresses and longer skirts, they presented a more mythical tale set to music. The boys, young, bare-chested and fit-looking competed on equal terms with the girls. The show was packed with wild drumming, gyrating dancers, colourful costumes, energy and enjoyment by both the performers and spectators alike. At the end, the audience were invited to join the dancers on the stage.
The next day, after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast and fruit on the attractive terrace overlooking the tropical gardens, we headed off early to circle the island counter clockwise, mainly because many of the tours did the circle clockwise and we wanted to catch the late afternoon sunset behind Rano Raraku - the Nursery. On the South coast, it was overcast and at a number of times during the day, we experienced rain showers. Our first area of exploration were a number of sites with remains of buildings and classical stonework. At Ahu Vinapu there is an impressive ahu site with a wall of mortar-less blocks that very much reminded us of the Inca walls that we’d visited in Ollantaytambo, near Cusco in Peru. The moai lay broken and facedown. Our guidebook told us that other smaller statues were present in this area. It was a moai with short legs. This resembled a number of figures that has been unearthed at a number of Inca sites in the Andes. A shower blew in, ending a more detailed investigation.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 7
On a site away from the water but overlooking the sea, we came to the entrance to the Sebastian Englert Museum. This was a well presented, artefact rich 15,000 piece collection of Rapa Nui’s past. The museum was started in 1973 and named after a German Capuchin missionary who had spent the later part of his life studying, documenting Rapa Nui society and presenting it to the world.
One of the exhibits that impressed me was a map drawn by Captain Cook during his visit in 1774 that has superimposed over it a NASA satellite outline of the island taken from space. The accuracy of Cook’s map was amazing.
Reading the description of the many excellent exhibits was time-consuming as the descriptions were in Spanish but a book of translations was provided by the Museum.
The afternoon consisted of a late lunch at Cafe Raá, a stroll round the shopping area and organising our rental car. The car hire process was casual and friendly as the owner was the sister of the family who ran the guest house. There wasn’t much use checking the vehicle for scratch marks, it was already pretty well worn. But it was $20 a day less than the renter down the road. It proved to be reliable until two days later, when we were trapped in a rainstorm it refused to start. We sat there wondering what to do next, but the rain eased and we tried again and wolla it started.
We drove back to the guest house just as an afternoon shower blew in. But here, like many of the Pacific islands, the showers blow over quickly and we decided that we’d drive out to the quarry site at Puna Pau where the topknots were made. This is about a 20 minute drive on the town side of the island. The site on a hillside with quite tall grass, shows a number of the cylindrical red rock “hats” in different stages of production. The stone is rough, more porous than the basalt stone of the figures. The topknots or pukao were made in the style of the hair of local men at that time. It is known that these were placed on the statues after they were erected on the platforms but it is not known how this was achieved. There isn’t a lot to see at the quarry, but from the top of the hill there were extensive views over the rolling hills back to the town of Hanga Roa.
One of the exhibits that impressed me was a map drawn by Captain Cook during his visit in 1774 that has superimposed over it a NASA satellite outline of the island taken from space. The accuracy of Cook’s map was amazing.
Reading the description of the many excellent exhibits was time-consuming as the descriptions were in Spanish but a book of translations was provided by the Museum.
The afternoon consisted of a late lunch at Cafe Raá, a stroll round the shopping area and organising our rental car. The car hire process was casual and friendly as the owner was the sister of the family who ran the guest house. There wasn’t much use checking the vehicle for scratch marks, it was already pretty well worn. But it was $20 a day less than the renter down the road. It proved to be reliable until two days later, when we were trapped in a rainstorm it refused to start. We sat there wondering what to do next, but the rain eased and we tried again and wolla it started.
We drove back to the guest house just as an afternoon shower blew in. But here, like many of the Pacific islands, the showers blow over quickly and we decided that we’d drive out to the quarry site at Puna Pau where the topknots were made. This is about a 20 minute drive on the town side of the island. The site on a hillside with quite tall grass, shows a number of the cylindrical red rock “hats” in different stages of production. The stone is rough, more porous than the basalt stone of the figures. The topknots or pukao were made in the style of the hair of local men at that time. It is known that these were placed on the statues after they were erected on the platforms but it is not known how this was achieved. There isn’t a lot to see at the quarry, but from the top of the hill there were extensive views over the rolling hills back to the town of Hanga Roa.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 6
The native people living on the island today are the descendents of these few. By the time that the island was annexed by Chile in 1888, the population had grown considerably and today there are believed to be some 2,000 native Rapa Nui living on the island, and a number who have migrated to mainland Chile.
The early period of rule by Chile was very oppressive. The main complaint seems to be about land rights. Almost all native lands once owned by the clans were purchased for a pittance by the sheep traders or missionaries. A national park that occupies about a third of the island was declared in 1935 and much of the remaining land was owned, and still is owned or occupied by Chilean interests. Some land has been handed back but this remains a source of aggravation to the people of Rapa Nui. The British Williamson-Balfour Company rented most of the island for a sheep farm until 1953. It was not until 1966 when the Rapa Nui were given Chilean citizenship, that any form of say over their governance was afforded to the Rapa Nui people. They have a hope for future independence but there is an economic reality that is associated with this as tourism is their only income. Today the island is governed as a province of Valparaiso.
Our plan for our visit was simple. We’d spend the first day exploring the town, the harbour area and the museum and organising a two day car hire. The second day we’d go round the island with time to stop at Rano Raraku - the site of the Nursery of the Statues - and on the third day we’d visit the volcano site of Rano Kau, and the nearby Orongo site associated with the legend of the Birdmen.
The Tauraa Hotel was well located in the main street with good access to the shops and restaurants. We settled into our simple but quite functional room, #2. It was colourfully and tastefully decorated with an en-suite bathroom. Other than a little trouble with the hot water, which others have experienced, the accommodation was fine. The hotel probably more of a guest house has about ten studio apartments most facing onto a grassed lawn surrounded by palm trees, tropical gardens and a row of miniature statues.
Breakfast at the Tauraa guest house was leisurely: fruit juice, rolls, butter and jam. Plus fruit and coffee. On foot, we meandered our way through the several blocks until we reached the waterfront. Here we found a very small harbour with a dozen or so small boats tied up. These were a mixture of fishing boats and others were dive boats. There were a couple of diving groups checking out their equipment. This area has a number of good restaurants including Le Taverne du Pecheur and Merahi Ráa. We checked over their menus but it was too early for lunch. We stopped to take photos of our first close-up of a moai. This statue had a topknot and we could see clearly that the topknots were made from a different stone. One near the harbour was facing out to sea and it had it’s white coral eyes intact. We were surprised by the steep and sharp volcanic rock formations along the ocean waterfront. The seas drove into these with a force that demonstrated to us how difficult it must have been to land on the island. There were two visiting sailing yachts bobbing up and down in Cooks Bay. As we continued heading north, we found more statue sites, the first of them with a fully developed platform. We were soon to discover the important ceremonial use of the these platforms in the Rapa Nui culture.
The early period of rule by Chile was very oppressive. The main complaint seems to be about land rights. Almost all native lands once owned by the clans were purchased for a pittance by the sheep traders or missionaries. A national park that occupies about a third of the island was declared in 1935 and much of the remaining land was owned, and still is owned or occupied by Chilean interests. Some land has been handed back but this remains a source of aggravation to the people of Rapa Nui. The British Williamson-Balfour Company rented most of the island for a sheep farm until 1953. It was not until 1966 when the Rapa Nui were given Chilean citizenship, that any form of say over their governance was afforded to the Rapa Nui people. They have a hope for future independence but there is an economic reality that is associated with this as tourism is their only income. Today the island is governed as a province of Valparaiso.
Our plan for our visit was simple. We’d spend the first day exploring the town, the harbour area and the museum and organising a two day car hire. The second day we’d go round the island with time to stop at Rano Raraku - the site of the Nursery of the Statues - and on the third day we’d visit the volcano site of Rano Kau, and the nearby Orongo site associated with the legend of the Birdmen.
The Tauraa Hotel was well located in the main street with good access to the shops and restaurants. We settled into our simple but quite functional room, #2. It was colourfully and tastefully decorated with an en-suite bathroom. Other than a little trouble with the hot water, which others have experienced, the accommodation was fine. The hotel probably more of a guest house has about ten studio apartments most facing onto a grassed lawn surrounded by palm trees, tropical gardens and a row of miniature statues.
Breakfast at the Tauraa guest house was leisurely: fruit juice, rolls, butter and jam. Plus fruit and coffee. On foot, we meandered our way through the several blocks until we reached the waterfront. Here we found a very small harbour with a dozen or so small boats tied up. These were a mixture of fishing boats and others were dive boats. There were a couple of diving groups checking out their equipment. This area has a number of good restaurants including Le Taverne du Pecheur and Merahi Ráa. We checked over their menus but it was too early for lunch. We stopped to take photos of our first close-up of a moai. This statue had a topknot and we could see clearly that the topknots were made from a different stone. One near the harbour was facing out to sea and it had it’s white coral eyes intact. We were surprised by the steep and sharp volcanic rock formations along the ocean waterfront. The seas drove into these with a force that demonstrated to us how difficult it must have been to land on the island. There were two visiting sailing yachts bobbing up and down in Cooks Bay. As we continued heading north, we found more statue sites, the first of them with a fully developed platform. We were soon to discover the important ceremonial use of the these platforms in the Rapa Nui culture.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 5
By the mid 1600s, the population of the island had grown to a peak of about 10,000 after which the island could no longer support this population. Shortages of water, wood for fuel and food soon became an ecological disaster and it became a fight for survival. The once thriving, wealthy and ordered society broke down and a bloody civil war began which eventually saw some of the society descend into cannibalism.
It is believed that all of the moai that were standing along the coastline were torn down by the islanders and those that are standing today were the result of more recent archaeological effort. The timing of when the statues were pulled down is unclear as no written records were kept. But Captain Cook on his visit to the island in 1774 reported that some of the moai were still standing together with their topknots but some were toppled. In 1804, a Russian visitor reported only about 20 statues still standing. By 1838, it is recorded that the only statues to remain upright were those on the slopes of Rano Raroka, in Hoa Hakananai’s in Orongo and at Ariki Paro and Ahu Te Pito Kura. These are on both the east and west extremities of the island where the clan groups were particularly strong.
The Birdmen cult started about the time of the first Europeans, 1760, and continued until 1878. The first church was built by the Roman Catholic missionaries who arrived in 1864. We’ll come back to look into this the Birdman topic, later.
In the 1860’s Peruvian slave traders visited the island and during a number of visits over 1400 islanders, mainly productive men, were kidnapped. This was half of the islands population. These included the paramount chief and his heir. After protests by the Catholic Church, some of the islanders were returned but many died on the return journey and the smallpox that they brought with them, wiped out almost the entire population of the island. Some of the remaining islanders were evacuated with the missionaries when they left in 1871 and records exist that show that by 1877 that the population was reduced to 111 individuals. This dramatic reduction of the populations also had a devastating impact on the preservation of their culture.
It is believed that all of the moai that were standing along the coastline were torn down by the islanders and those that are standing today were the result of more recent archaeological effort. The timing of when the statues were pulled down is unclear as no written records were kept. But Captain Cook on his visit to the island in 1774 reported that some of the moai were still standing together with their topknots but some were toppled. In 1804, a Russian visitor reported only about 20 statues still standing. By 1838, it is recorded that the only statues to remain upright were those on the slopes of Rano Raroka, in Hoa Hakananai’s in Orongo and at Ariki Paro and Ahu Te Pito Kura. These are on both the east and west extremities of the island where the clan groups were particularly strong.
The Birdmen cult started about the time of the first Europeans, 1760, and continued until 1878. The first church was built by the Roman Catholic missionaries who arrived in 1864. We’ll come back to look into this the Birdman topic, later.
In the 1860’s Peruvian slave traders visited the island and during a number of visits over 1400 islanders, mainly productive men, were kidnapped. This was half of the islands population. These included the paramount chief and his heir. After protests by the Catholic Church, some of the islanders were returned but many died on the return journey and the smallpox that they brought with them, wiped out almost the entire population of the island. Some of the remaining islanders were evacuated with the missionaries when they left in 1871 and records exist that show that by 1877 that the population was reduced to 111 individuals. This dramatic reduction of the populations also had a devastating impact on the preservation of their culture.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page: 4
It seems likely that there was more than one period of migration because different evidence points to migration from the Marquesas, 3,200 kilometers (2,000 miles) away and the Cook Islands. The Rapa Nui language, for example, appears more closely related to that of Cook Islands. Captain Cook had an islander crew member who was born in Bora Bora, Society Islands. He was able to communicate with the Rapa Nui.
Some of the early legends related to the “short ears” and “long ears”. The long ears were regarded as the people from the Marguesas. These people come from an island group to the west of Easter Island and are recognised as being on the migration path as the Melanesian culture expanded through the Pacific. The term relates to long ear lobes that result from decorations being inserted into the ear lobe. Many of the moai demonstrate these long ears. When Cook landed there after his visit to Easter Island, he recorded that his crew had found the local people to be very light skinned. Others reported both light and dark skinned inhabitants of Easter Island. These observations may add some support to the theory of the short ears verses the long ears and there being two periods of migration.
In the first 800 years, the island supported the population and society prospered. According to records made by the missionaries in the 1860s, a ruling hierarchy with it’s warriors class developed and the various sons of the founder assumed leadership roles. Gradually, the society became divided into mata (clans). Each clan could trace their heritage to the sons of Hotu Matuá, who legends say, was the paramount chief that colonised Rapa Nui. There were at least ten mata. Later each mata was divided into subgroups or family groups called Ure. The clans with the highest social status occupied the western side of the island.
As the power of the clans grew so the power of the once paramount chief or king - the ariki mau - declined. This is believed to be the start of the era of the statues, about 1000 AD. As much prestige and pride were attached to the construction of the moai, the clan chiefs ordered more of the statues to be produced. This meant that more and more labour became involved in the building and transportation of these statues and less producing food.
Some of the early legends related to the “short ears” and “long ears”. The long ears were regarded as the people from the Marguesas. These people come from an island group to the west of Easter Island and are recognised as being on the migration path as the Melanesian culture expanded through the Pacific. The term relates to long ear lobes that result from decorations being inserted into the ear lobe. Many of the moai demonstrate these long ears. When Cook landed there after his visit to Easter Island, he recorded that his crew had found the local people to be very light skinned. Others reported both light and dark skinned inhabitants of Easter Island. These observations may add some support to the theory of the short ears verses the long ears and there being two periods of migration.
In the first 800 years, the island supported the population and society prospered. According to records made by the missionaries in the 1860s, a ruling hierarchy with it’s warriors class developed and the various sons of the founder assumed leadership roles. Gradually, the society became divided into mata (clans). Each clan could trace their heritage to the sons of Hotu Matuá, who legends say, was the paramount chief that colonised Rapa Nui. There were at least ten mata. Later each mata was divided into subgroups or family groups called Ure. The clans with the highest social status occupied the western side of the island.
As the power of the clans grew so the power of the once paramount chief or king - the ariki mau - declined. This is believed to be the start of the era of the statues, about 1000 AD. As much prestige and pride were attached to the construction of the moai, the clan chiefs ordered more of the statues to be produced. This meant that more and more labour became involved in the building and transportation of these statues and less producing food.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 3
Page: 3
But first, there can be no discussion about Rapa Nui and its people, without understanding a little of its history.
In 1722, the Dutch explorer Jocob Roggeveen was the first European to discover the Island. He named it Easter Island as it was discovered on Easter Day. He and his crew at first, thought that the moai were idols as people bowed before them. The first encounter didn’t end well as a confrontation occurred which resulted in the sailors opening fire and killing a number of the natives.
In 1774, Captain Cook, a British explorer, sent a party ashore and when they returned, they reported that a number of the statues had been toppled.
The visitors mainly sought water, wood and fresh food. There was no safe anchorage. Observations from their visits records that by this time, wood was very scarce and only small canoes were being made by the locals. Roggeveen described the islanders as living in squalid reed huts or caves, being in a perpetual state of war between the tribes and having to resort to cannibalism to supplement the meagre food supplies available on the island.
There has been much controversy and confusion about the origins of the Easter Islanders. The renowned explorer, Thor Heyerdahl, believed that the people who built the statues were from Peru because of similarities found in their stonework. Although, Heyerdahl produced significant evidence to support his claims, once they were looked at in detail against other alternatives, his concept has now been scientifically disproved.
Erich von Daniken put forward theories that the island was once inhabited by people that were under an extra-terrestrial influence but no scientific evidence has every been found to support this theory.
Archaeological evidence, however, indicates that the island was populated by people of Polynesian descent about 400 AD. Evidence has also been found of writings by the locals in Rongo rongo script, which is really the only written language in Oceania (the Pacific). Pottery, carvings, tattooing, music and dance follow the Polynesian style. The Romga rongo tablets are believed to record ancient hymns, genealogies and practices brought by the original inhabitants of the island.
But first, there can be no discussion about Rapa Nui and its people, without understanding a little of its history.
In 1722, the Dutch explorer Jocob Roggeveen was the first European to discover the Island. He named it Easter Island as it was discovered on Easter Day. He and his crew at first, thought that the moai were idols as people bowed before them. The first encounter didn’t end well as a confrontation occurred which resulted in the sailors opening fire and killing a number of the natives.
In 1774, Captain Cook, a British explorer, sent a party ashore and when they returned, they reported that a number of the statues had been toppled.
The visitors mainly sought water, wood and fresh food. There was no safe anchorage. Observations from their visits records that by this time, wood was very scarce and only small canoes were being made by the locals. Roggeveen described the islanders as living in squalid reed huts or caves, being in a perpetual state of war between the tribes and having to resort to cannibalism to supplement the meagre food supplies available on the island.
There has been much controversy and confusion about the origins of the Easter Islanders. The renowned explorer, Thor Heyerdahl, believed that the people who built the statues were from Peru because of similarities found in their stonework. Although, Heyerdahl produced significant evidence to support his claims, once they were looked at in detail against other alternatives, his concept has now been scientifically disproved.
Erich von Daniken put forward theories that the island was once inhabited by people that were under an extra-terrestrial influence but no scientific evidence has every been found to support this theory.
Archaeological evidence, however, indicates that the island was populated by people of Polynesian descent about 400 AD. Evidence has also been found of writings by the locals in Rongo rongo script, which is really the only written language in Oceania (the Pacific). Pottery, carvings, tattooing, music and dance follow the Polynesian style. The Romga rongo tablets are believed to record ancient hymns, genealogies and practices brought by the original inhabitants of the island.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page:2
The island was formed by volcanic actions in pre-history and its geology is based upon volcanic rock. It is best known for the giant stone monoliths, known as moai, that dot the coastline. It was these that we’d come to see.
The island remains one of the most unique places on earth, it is a living museum that showcases a sad, lost civilisation. The landscape is amazing with volcanic craters, a few beaches, lava formations, small areas of forest or vegetation and, of the course, the statues. The island isn’t large. It is perhaps 24 miles long and 12 miles wide, roughly triangular in shape and with four peaks and three dormant volcano sites. While its peaks may not be very high, the island is surrounded by seas that are 3,000 meters deep.
Our flight on LAN Chile from Santiago took 5 hours and forty minutes. We were picked up at the Mataveri International Airport by Edith from the Tauraa Hotel. The airport, built by the American’s to provide an emergency landing site for the Space Shuttle, has a huge runway which looks out of place in comparison to the rest of the island. The terminal though, is Polynesian. Edith greeted us with the traditional floral lei, a friendly hug and a waiting van.
Over the years, we’d already visited many of the islands of the South Pacific and we recognised all the signs of a Polynesian culture as we were driven into town. However, the local people turned out to be some of the most laid back, friendly and warm people that we’d met on our travels.
The main town, Hanga Roa, is spread out with perhaps a 4 x 3 street grid. This is the only town on the island. The houses, some simple, other quite modern, were surrounded by palm or banana trees. The shops were few and mostly of a corner-store variety. There was one market area and a nearby supermarket. There are two or three car or scooter hire places, one gas station and a number of churches. In town the roads are tar sealed but beyond that the roads are gravel. There is an area near the shops where the street has curbs and a footpath. Parking is pretty unregulated.
At the time of our arrival in 2008, there were no international style hotels but a number of smaller family run hotels and guest houses that are comfortable, convenient to town and affordable.
The island remains one of the most unique places on earth, it is a living museum that showcases a sad, lost civilisation. The landscape is amazing with volcanic craters, a few beaches, lava formations, small areas of forest or vegetation and, of the course, the statues. The island isn’t large. It is perhaps 24 miles long and 12 miles wide, roughly triangular in shape and with four peaks and three dormant volcano sites. While its peaks may not be very high, the island is surrounded by seas that are 3,000 meters deep.
Our flight on LAN Chile from Santiago took 5 hours and forty minutes. We were picked up at the Mataveri International Airport by Edith from the Tauraa Hotel. The airport, built by the American’s to provide an emergency landing site for the Space Shuttle, has a huge runway which looks out of place in comparison to the rest of the island. The terminal though, is Polynesian. Edith greeted us with the traditional floral lei, a friendly hug and a waiting van.
Over the years, we’d already visited many of the islands of the South Pacific and we recognised all the signs of a Polynesian culture as we were driven into town. However, the local people turned out to be some of the most laid back, friendly and warm people that we’d met on our travels.
The main town, Hanga Roa, is spread out with perhaps a 4 x 3 street grid. This is the only town on the island. The houses, some simple, other quite modern, were surrounded by palm or banana trees. The shops were few and mostly of a corner-store variety. There was one market area and a nearby supermarket. There are two or three car or scooter hire places, one gas station and a number of churches. In town the roads are tar sealed but beyond that the roads are gravel. There is an area near the shops where the street has curbs and a footpath. Parking is pretty unregulated.
At the time of our arrival in 2008, there were no international style hotels but a number of smaller family run hotels and guest houses that are comfortable, convenient to town and affordable.
Mysteries of Easter Island Page 1
By Brian Lawrenson
There are only two ways to get to Easter Island. You can either sail there or fly from Santiago in Chile on LAN Chile or fly from Papeete in Tahiti.
The island is located in the Pacific Ocean some 3,200 kilometers (2,000 miles) to the East of Chile. This makes it one of the most isolated places on earth. Easter Island is called Isla de Pascua in Spanish and in Polynesian, Rapa Nui. Today, it is locally called Rapa Nui. Although Rapa Nui is a Chilean territory, tourism on the island is run by the Rapa Nui themselves.
There are only two ways to get to Easter Island. You can either sail there or fly from Santiago in Chile on LAN Chile or fly from Papeete in Tahiti.
The island is located in the Pacific Ocean some 3,200 kilometers (2,000 miles) to the East of Chile. This makes it one of the most isolated places on earth. Easter Island is called Isla de Pascua in Spanish and in Polynesian, Rapa Nui. Today, it is locally called Rapa Nui. Although Rapa Nui is a Chilean territory, tourism on the island is run by the Rapa Nui themselves.
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